Photo copyrigh t: Shejun There was a time when almost every village had a water mill, known locally as a Chuti , and the place was called Chuti-Gang . If you stood nearby, you would hear rushing water, the steady rumble of stone grinding grain, and the voices of people waiting for their turn. Today, those sounds are rarely heard. When I was growing up, villagers carried sacks of maize or barley to the village chuti . The mill ran entirely on water. A short distance above the mill house, water was collected in a small dam. From there, it flowed through a long wooden trough that sloped towards the mill. As the water gathered speed, it struck a wooden wheel below and set the whole mechanism in motion. Inside the mill, two large circular stones ground the grain into flour. One stone rested on the other. The upper stone had a hole in the centre where grain was poured. A wooden shaft connected the water wheel to the upper stone, causing it to rotate while the lower stone remained st...
Growing up in rural Bhutan, the richest people in the village often had very little cash. They were known as chukpo , 'the ones with cattle'. And no one asked how much money a person had in the bank. No one or only a countable few had bank accounts, anyway. Wealth was measured in fields, cattle, grains, and the ability to carry a family through the seasons. Cash existed, but it played only a small role. Most exchanges happened through barter. Rice for chillies, soya beans for Sichuan peppers, cheese for eggs. I still remember that a ball of homemade cheese was worth two fresh eggs. Nobody needed a calculator because people simply knew. The most remarkable part of the system was the exchange of labour. During sowing and planting seasons, families needed extra hands, yet labour was rarely paid in cash. If I spent three days helping on your farm, you spent three days helping on mine in return. No contract was needed to be signed. No money changed hands. Wealthier households so...